Diverse Oman In the realm of camels, wadis and 1001 of a night
Vanessa Büchel
1.12.2024
Oman - a fairy tale from 1001 nights. Colorful souks, endless expanses, impressive high mountains and green wadis await. A diverse kingdom that will amaze you and where camels block the roads.
No time? blue News summarizes for you
- Oman impresses with its contrasting landscapes - from green wadis with wild camels to spectacular canyons, white dream beaches and city life in Muscat.
- During the rainy season from June to September, the south near Salalah is transformed into a green oasis that attracts tourists.
- Oman offers safe opportunities for individual travel by rental car, although a 4x4 vehicle is recommended for off-road routes and remote destinations.
- Culinary fans of Arabic cuisine will get their money's worth in Oman.
With a slight hint of disappointment, I let my gaze wander over the four small waterfalls that flow into a glowing turquoise lake. In the pictures I googled earlier, there are roaring streams and masses of water plunging into the depths; here, a little bit of water gently ripples away. But of course, the rainy season is over.
I can hear the camels grumbling in the background. The herd is not far away, we have seen them from the road.
There are plenty of camels here. They move in groups through the arid landscape, which they blend in well with the colors. As a caravan, they stroll along the roads here in the south of Oman, chewing their cud, stopping the traffic. But the Omanis don't mind, it just seems to be part of everyday life.
Oman info
- Capital: Muscat
- Population: 4.6 million (2023)
- Area: 309,501 square kilometers
- Official language: Arabic
- Currency: Rial Omani; 1 rial is currently equivalent to 2.3 francs.
- Best time to visit: From October to March, Oman is pleasantly warm but not too hot. During this time, a trip is worthwhile for anyone who wants to escape the cold season in Switzerland. Between May and September it can get very hot with temperatures of over 35 degrees - especially in the desert areas.
In Wadi Darbat in the hinterland of the city of Salalah, I keep seeing camels stretching their thin necks towards the dry trees as I drive past. The animals want the last lush green leaves. Because there are not many of them left. The kareefh - as the rainy season is called here - is over.
When all the people make a pilgrimage to Salalah
It is a real miracle when the monsoon brings water to the Arab country. Our guide Abdullah, who studied in Florida and was called Abby there, reports how thousands and thousands of people from all the surrounding countries rush to the south of Oman. They all want to experience how the otherwise dry region comes to life and becomes a green oasis.
The hotels are fully booked at this time - between mid-June and the end of August to mid-September. The locals rent out their houses to earn a little extra money.
Oman is dotted with numerous wadis. These are riverbeds in the desert that carry water after heavy rainfall. A visit to one of these is a must on any trip through the Sultanate. The Wadi Darbat in the Dhofar Mountains is just one of many excursion destinations.
During the rainy season, the Al Baleed Resort in Salalah is also well booked by the Anantara Group. However, a trip there is worthwhile all year round. "This place was opened in 2017 and resembles a typical Omani fortress," explains Andrea Orrú, General Manager of the hotel. The complex, with more villas and suites than rooms, blends naturally into the surroundings.
As I swim in the infinity pool, I let my gaze wander over the roaring sea. The waves pile up there - the deep red flag flutters in the wind. Is it always this dangerous to swim here? "No, it's quite rare," explains a member of staff over dinner in the Mediterranean restaurant Al Mina.
The restaurants are also open to non-hotel guests. Hungry diners can feast on Asian specialties at the Mekong restaurant on the premises and Sakalan offers an international menu with a focus on local delicacies.
Where Princess Diana once marveled at the beauty of Oman
The local delicacies are a dream come true for anyone who loves hummus, baba ganoush, stuffed vine leaves or fresh dates. In the Sultanate, fans of Arabic cuisine get their money's worth. The dishes are intense, well-seasoned, authentic - and a real explosion of flavor.
We also get a taste for it at the other Anantara hotel in the mountains, around two hours' drive from the capital Muscat. However, the highlight of the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort is not its restaurants, but rather its location. It is situated on the Saiq Plateau in the middle of an impressive canyon.
Where Princess Diana (1961-1997) once let her gaze wander over the fascinating view, there is now a viewing platform. From there, you can marvel at the spectacular sunset, which is a little more intense here than anywhere else in the country.
As soon as the sun is gone, however, it gets quite chilly up here at 2000 meters. During our stay at the end of October, temperatures can drop to ten degrees at night.
Oman is so diverse
The journey to Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort alone is an unforgettable experience: past bare rocks and high mountains - the dry and, for some, probably bland landscape never ceases to amaze me.
Even on the drive back to Muscat, I can't get enough, keeping my gaze fixed on the jeep window. You can only go up and down if you drive a 4x4 car.
Slowly the landscape changes to urban, the change happens naturally. Muscat - the capital of Oman - appears in this pure, simple, gleaming white look. Everything seems to be in order; everything is where it belongs. The city of 650,000 inhabitants may not sound that big, but its sheer size is surprising.
Because it is not permitted to build upwards in Oman, everything is somehow flatter and wider. The predominantly white or beige buildings adorn the old town, but also form the new part of Muscat. Minarets flash up everywhere in between - the call to prayer echoes regularly through the alleyways.
I let myself drift through the hustle and bustle of the Mutrah Souk, dabbing rose oil on my wrists here and there or being offered incense. Everything smells good.
Back on the street, we stroll along the Mutrah Corniche promenade and listen to Marwan Al Zadjali's stories. The Director of Marketing at Anantara Al Jabal Akhdar grew up in the city. "Muscat is very diverse, every street has so many stories to tell. Here you can find good food, store endlessly, visit impressive mosques - or smoke a shisha in comfort."
And that's exactly what we do in the evening. Marwan takes us to the Kalabash restaurant, where it's mainly locals who pull the smoke out of the hose. The air is filled with mist and smells of a mix of blueberry and lemon.
As my counterpart gets the water bubbling in the shisha, I think about Oman. What a world: a kingdom with thousands and thousands of wild camels, impressive canyons, green wadis, arid deserts, grand shopping malls, glamorous mosques, well-mannered cities and, above all, lots of friendliness. As I sip my karak - a delicious spiced tea - I reflect on how beautiful the contrasts are in this sultanate, which somehow only seems half populated.
And then there is this soft light. Somehow there is this light haze on everything, but the sun makes everything in Oman shine a little more beautifully in this grotesque way.
I love the many empty landscapes, untouched nature, wild sea and this lush green hinterland. But I would love to come back here and dive even deeper into 1001 nights.
Good to know
- How to get there: From the end of February 2025, Edelweiss will be flying seasonally twice a week from Zurich via Muscat to Salalah and back non-stop from there. Bookable at flyedelweiss.com.
- Accommodation: The Anantara hotels in Oman are both a highlight in their own right. The Al Baleed Resort in Salalah attracts guests with its fantastic beach, unique infinity pool and pretty pool villas. A "One Bedroom Garden View Pool Villa" is available from 597 francs per night. In contrast, an incredible view awaited travelers at the Al Jabal Akhdar Resort. Princess Diana once enjoyed the view of the impressive canyon there. Rooms with spectacular views of the mountains are available from 431 francs per night.
- Getting around: Oman is safe and if you want, you can explore the country on your own in a rental car. However, the country stretches quite a distance from north to south. It will take you more than ten hours to drive from Muscat to Salalah. Due to the many mountains and off-road possibilities, a 4x4 vehicle is recommended. Otherwise, there are also cheap domestic flights to get from the capital to the south. There is a wide range of day trips on offer. In the south, Abdullah offers tailor-made excursions under the name "Dhofari Nomad". The upbeat tour guide knows his homeland and has an exciting story to tell wherever he goes. Taxis or personal drivers have their price, but are also worthwhile as they give you more insight into the lives of the locals.
- Don't miss: There are small villages to discover around the Al Jabal Akhdar Resort. You can book a short hike through Al Aqr, Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah at the hotel. Traditional cultivation is practiced on so-called "Hanging Terraces". A lot thrives up here at altitude and the view on the tour is simply stunning. You should also not miss an excursion to one of the many wadis. The Wadi Darbat in the south is well worth a visit, but travelers will also find impressive oases all over the country in this otherwise barren region.
This article was written as part of an individual press trip, supported by Edelweiss and Anantara Hotels.
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