On the road on the east coast of Sicily Catania - the ugly and charming port city at the foot of Mount Etna
When small flakes fall in Catania in summer, Mount Etna spits once again. This is life at the foot of the Sicilian volcano in a city that is somehow more cozy and relaxed than Palermo.
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- The Italian city of Catania in the east of Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, is not far from the volcano Etna.
- The port city is ideal for excursions to Mount Etna and the wineries around the volcano.
- But other excursion destinations are not far away either - such as the enchanting Syracuse or the pretty village of Taormina.
- In the hinterland of Catania, there are various agriturismo that make a vacation in the countryside possible.
Taormina, Cefalù and Favignana are well-known names, but the coast of Catania has been on everyone's lips since Nina Chuba's (25) song "Wildberry Lillet". "Want a house for my mom on the coast of Catania. Canapés and a Wildberry Lillet for breakfast...", the German rapper sings in her song.
And since I've been to this region, I understand why. A house on Sicily's east coast? That would be a dream. From Catania, there are so many possibilities, so many places to discover. But vibrant Catania itself also has a lot to offer. The second largest city on the island lies at the foot of Mount Etna and is bursting with life.
Yes, the good Mount Etna. It doesn't just cause problems for the airport, but also covers the city in black dust from time to time. In the Comis Ice Cafè, right next to the Teatro Massimo Bellini, the wind blows ash into my ice cream. Certainly not harmful to my health, but still somehow bizarre.
I ask the waiter if this is normal. "It happens all the time, we're used to it," he replies with a grin as he wipes down the table for the fifth time since I've been sitting here and tries to remove the recurring dust. It's a vicious circle.
The inhabitants of Catania have no fear, even though they live in the immediate vicinity of the highest active volcano in Europe. Unimaginable for me. "It was there before us and fortunately it's peaceful," says the waiter at the café with what I think is the best ice cream in all of Sicily.
Catania is somehow rough, run-down in many places and exudes a ramshackle charm, but the Sicilian port city is genuine, authentic and exudes that typical Italian flair. I don't fall in love at first sight, scratching at the façade at first, but then I realize: but Catania, you have touched my heart with your peculiar way.
Sicily info
- Capital: Palermo
- Population: 5 million (2019)
- Area: 25,711 square kilometers
- Official language: Italian
- Best time to visit: It can get very hot in Sicily in the summer months, so spring and fall are popular times to visit. March to May and September and October are recommended for a pleasant climate.
There are the waving washing lines in the cobbled streets, the honking of the Vespas racing past, the fishy smell of "La Pescheria", the haggling in the other wild markets, which are somehow reminiscent of bazaars, all the pompous churches - led by Sant'Agata Cathedral - and the omnipresence of Mount Etna.
Everywhere you go, you can catch a glimpse of the mystical volcano, whose peak is shrouded in clouds on many days. A main road has even been dedicated to it. Via Etnea begins at Piazza del Duomo and runs directly towards the volcano. The Roman Theater, which is the second largest of its kind after the Colosseum in Rome, also bears traces of Etna - it was built from black lava stone.
Catania is probably not on the list of Italy's many places of longing, but there is something about the city that captivates its visitors and never lets go. Somehow everything here is more relaxed and laid-back than in the capital Palermo, but Catania is bursting with joie de vivre - there is so much to discover in the dirty but charming streets, and there are also other highlights in the surrounding area.
1st excursion tip: Syracuse and the island of Ortygia
About an hour south of Catania lies the city of Syracuse with its historic center, the island of Ortygia. No other place in Sicily appeals to me as much as this old town. Everything here is somehow a bit dressed up, but not too tight. The crowds of tourists are large, but they get lost in the winding alleyways.
The city, which was attributed great importance in ancient times, shines predominantly in white stone. No wonder this pretty little corner of the world has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has even been chosen by luxury label Dolce & Gabbana as the venue for its fashion show.
It's worth getting lost in the streets of Ortygia without a plan, just wandering around. You should definitely include a stop in front of the large cathedral of Santa Maria delle Colonne on your route. The restaurant A Putia serves delicious tiramisu - also available in a lemon and pistachio version - and if you want to try something other than Sicilian pasta dishes, feast on Roman specialties such as Cacio e Pepe in the restaurant La Dogana.
The city of Syracuse is located in the south-east of Sicily.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
With its cobbled streets, it exudes typical Italian flair.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
A must-do: lose yourself in the historic center, the island of Ortygia.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The Cathedral of Santa Maria delle Colonne is the main church in Syracuse.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
With its pompous decorations, it is a real eye-catcher.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
There are also stretched washing lines here.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
There are chairs everywhere in Syracuse's streets, where you can feast on tiramisu or pasta alla norma.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Not only cacti, but also palm trees and other green plants grow in the middle of the city.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
You can also get through the narrow streets of Syracuse by tuk-tuk.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Archimedes, a Greek mathematician, physicist and engineer, is said to have been born in Syracuse, which is why a statue was dedicated to him.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The city of Syracuse is located in the south-east of Sicily.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
With its cobbled streets, it exudes typical Italian flair.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
A must-do: lose yourself in the historic center, the island of Ortygia.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The Cathedral of Santa Maria delle Colonne is the main church in Syracuse.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
With its pompous decorations, it is a real eye-catcher.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
There are also stretched washing lines here.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
There are chairs everywhere in Syracuse's streets, where you can feast on tiramisu or pasta alla norma.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Not only cacti, but also palm trees and other green plants grow in the middle of the city.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
You can also get through the narrow streets of Syracuse by tuk-tuk.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Archimedes, a Greek mathematician, physicist and engineer, is said to have been born in Syracuse, which is why a statue was dedicated to him.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
2nd excursion tip: bays on the east coast of Sicily
Oh, the bays of Sicily. They enchant with their crystal-clear water and rugged cliffs. You can relax here, even if space is usually very limited in the high season. The natural beauty of the beaches is well known, but not for nothing.
A popular excursion destination is Punta di Mola, a former military base where bathing beauties clamber down the rocks to splash and splash around. On the way there, the historic island of Ortygia stretches out in the distance, appearing like a lighthouse on the horizon.
The many bays on the east coast of Sicily invite you to swim in the crystal-clear water.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Punta di Mola is a popular excursion destination.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Here, rugged cliffs line the beach and the water, which shimmers in various shades of turquoise.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
On the way to Punta di Mola, the historic center of Syracuse, the island of Ortygia, stretches out in the distance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The many bays on the east coast of Sicily invite you to swim in the crystal-clear water.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Punta di Mola is a popular excursion destination.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Here, rugged cliffs line the beach and the water, which shimmers in various shades of turquoise.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
On the way to Punta di Mola, the historic center of Syracuse, the island of Ortygia, stretches out in the distance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
3rd excursion tip: Taormina - the tourist stronghold
The enchanting little town of Taormina north of Catania is Sicily's Instagram hotspot and packed with tourists. It quickly becomes clear why the village, which is located 200 meters above sea level, is such a popular destination: the well-kept streets with their beautifully decorated houses invite you to stroll, store and stop off at one of the countless restaurants. Stop for an Aperol and enjoy people-watching at its finest. Tasty lemon pasta is available at Ristorante Malvasia.
A cable car connects the high-altitude tourist stronghold with the beach. If you want to splash around in the sea, you will be rewarded with spectacular views on the ride down. Isola Bella is one of the highlights of Taormina, where beach chairs line up like sardines in a tin on the public beach section and blaring music booms from the adjacent beach clubs.
If you want to go to the beach in Taormina to the famous Isola Bella, take the cable car.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The beach is crowded and one beach club follows the next.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The view from the many balconies in Taormina is spectacular. Mount Etna towers in the distance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The well-kept streets with their pretty houses ...
Image: Vanessa Büchel
... invite you to stroll and store.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The square in front of the Chiesa di San Giuseppe is reminiscent of a chessboard and is a popular photo motif.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
If you want to go to the beach in Taormina to the famous Isola Bella, take the cable car.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The beach is crowded and one beach club follows the next.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The view from the many balconies in Taormina is spectacular. Mount Etna towers in the distance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The well-kept streets with their pretty houses ...
Image: Vanessa Büchel
... invite you to stroll and store.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The square in front of the Chiesa di San Giuseppe is reminiscent of a chessboard and is a popular photo motif.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
4th excursion tip: Etna wineries
Wine and Italy go hand in hand. If you're on vacation in Italy, you can't avoid a glass - and you shouldn't, because the best wines are produced there. The vineyards around Mount Etna are particularly praised in Sicily. The volcanic soil of the region is bursting with nutrients and the grapes absorb them.
A visit to Sicily's landmark, Mount Etna, can be combined with a wine tasting at one of the many wineries around the volcano. Cottanera or Pietradolce, for example, are ideal for an excursion. For a subsequent ascent of Mount Etna, a tour should definitely be booked in advance.
5th excursion tip: Spend the night in an agriturismo in the countryside
Friends of country life will feel uncomfortable in a city hotel in the middle of Catania. For them, we recommend spending the night in a so-called agriturismo. These are farms that rent out rooms and also offer meals - but often only breakfast.
The Pietre di Gelo is a beautiful family farm that is a great place to stay. On a walk around the estate, you can pick ripe mangoes, stroll past avocado trees and meet the farm dogs Bella and Pedro. Without a rental car, getting here is a bit of a challenge, but the journey is worth it: the seclusion, the generous breakfast buffet with fresh produce from the farm and the charming host family make the stay unforgettable.
Half an hour's drive from Catania Airport, which Edelweiss flies to almost daily from Zurich in summer, and not far from many of the island's other highlights.
Vacations in the countryside: Agriturismo Pietre di Gelo is located half an hour's drive south of Catania.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The country house of the beautiful family farm invites you to relax.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
From your room, you can look out over the vast plains of the Sicilian hinterland.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
On a walk around the farm, you stroll past avocado ...
Image: Vanessa Büchel
... and mango trees. Mount Etna greets you in the distance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Plumeria thrives on the estate.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The farm dog Bella watches over the entrance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The breakfast buffet is full of fruit and vegetables from the farm.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Vacations in the countryside: Agriturismo Pietre di Gelo is located half an hour's drive south of Catania.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The country house of the beautiful family farm invites you to relax.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
From your room, you can look out over the vast plains of the Sicilian hinterland.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
On a walk around the farm, you stroll past avocado ...
Image: Vanessa Büchel
... and mango trees. Mount Etna greets you in the distance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Plumeria thrives on the estate.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The farm dog Bella watches over the entrance.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
The breakfast buffet is full of fruit and vegetables from the farm.
Image: Vanessa Büchel
Good to know
- How to get there: Edelweiss flies non-stop to Catania all year round - almost daily in summer and up to four times a week from October to March. Bookable at flyedelweiss.com.
- Where to stay: The rooms at Agriturismo Pietre di Gelo - a beautiful family-run business - are furnished in typical farmhouse style and invite you to enjoy a relaxing vacation in the countryside. Catania Airport is only half an hour's drive away and Syracuse can be reached in around three quarters of an hour. A double room with breakfast is available from around 90 francs per night. Further information can be found here.
- Taste: Sicily has a lot to offer in terms of cuisine. In addition to the typical small rice balls, arancini, which are eaten with the hands as a snack, the sweets are particularly noteworthy. A brioche with ice cream? There's one on every corner. Cannoli are another must-try delicacy. This is a small roll filled with sweet ricotta cream.
This article was written as part of an individual press trip supported by Edelweiss.
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