Among 10,000 olive trees Why relaxing in the south of Sicily is worthwhile
Vanessa Büchel
22.9.2024
In the middle of the arid landscape of southern Sicily, Mandranova invites you to take an idyllic break in the countryside. The agriturismo has over 10,000 olive trees that defy the harsh local weather conditions.
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- The owner of Agriturismo Mandranova in southern Sicily explains during a visit that the region urgently needs rain.
- The Mandranova farm has around 10,000 olive and almond trees and produces around 40,000 liters of olive oil every year.
- The estate is a wonderful place to relax, with a walk through the olive groves taking you far away from the stresses of everyday life.
- Despite dry periods, the trees thrive. This is thanks to a sophisticated groundwater system.
It hasn't rained in the area around Agrigento for about six months, as Sicilian Giuseppe Di Vincenzo says. The gnarled olive trees of Mandranova stand in rows, nestled in the arid landscape. Despite the lack of water, they bear juicy fruit and are irrigated by an ingenious groundwater system.
Giuseppe picks one of the green olives from the tree and squeezes it in his fingers. Juice oozes out of the top. The harvest is due soon, explains the owner of the agriturismo in southern Sicily.
In his previous life, Giuseppe was a banker in Palermo. In 1995, he planted the first olive trees on his family's land and has been leading a life away from the hustle and bustle of the city ever since. Today, the farm has around 10,000 trees, which yield fruit for around 40,000 liters of olive oil every year. Most of the production is sent to Japan. "They appreciate good quality," says Giuseppe with a smile.
The family dog, Anita, walks alongside the entrepreneur with the raffia hat. The two of them walk between the olive groves towards the old Land Rover. In the shadows of the trees, Giuseppe reaches for the branches and nods with satisfaction. This year should be a good harvest.
When the rain arrives, we toast with champagne
The farmer drives us over hill and dale, while Anita runs alongside the car with her tail wagging. The sun beats down mercilessly from a cloudless sky, but Giuseppe predicts the long-awaited rainfall for the evening.
If his prophecy comes true, he promises, the bottle of champagne that his son Gabriele received for his wedding will be popped.
Gabriele works in the Mandranova family business. Just like his mother Silvia. The couple's second son, Giovanni, currently still lives in Milan, where, like Giuseppe, he used to work as a banker.
However, the proud father says that the family will be reunited from January, when Giovanni will also join the family business and leave the everyday life of a banker behind him.
While Giuseppe and Gabriele take care of the 200-hectare farm with its olive and almond trees and the production of oil, Silvia mainly looks after the management of the hospitality business. She is the good soul of the agriturismo.
Son Gabriele is a trained chef and also helps out in the kitchen, where Sicilian classics and exciting new creations are made from local and fresh ingredients.
"Cooking is a family affair"
At lunch or dinner, guests can discover the culinary spectrum that the Italian island has to offer. Over the centuries, a broad cuisine has developed, influenced by the various cultures that once ruled Sicily. Fish couscous can be found on the menu, as can arancini - balls of risotto rice - which were invented with the help of leftovers from the fridge.
Although Gabriele trained as a chef, he originally learned how to prepare Sicilian delicacies from his mother. "Cooking is a family affair, the secret recipes are passed down through the generations," says Silvia as she stirs in an oversized saucepan bubbling with stock. She skims off a little and pours it into another pot, where the risotto rice for the famous arancini is bubbling away.
During a cooking course at Mandranova, guests learn more about the culture of Sicily, such as how pasta al norma or arancini are prepared and why Palermo and Catania argue about the correct ending for the name of the small rice balls. Arancine or arancini - they taste delicious anyway.
Sicilian olive oil tastes more intense
Whether for lunch or dinner, the tables at Mandranova are laden with the restaurant's own olive oil. Giuseppe twists off the black cap and hands over the bottle: "It tastes good with everything, but our olive oil develops its full flavor with a piece of bread."
The Sicilian smiles kindly and holds out the bread basket to me. The olive oil in Sicily does indeed taste much more intense, fresher - and simply that little bit better.
It's not just at dinner that you feel like you're part of the Mandranova family. The lovingly furnished rooms of the typical country house, which is run by Giuseppe and Silvia in the sixth generation, are brimming with history. Ancient Guetzli tins and yellowed pictures in magnificently decorated frames bear witness to another era and are reminiscent of years long gone.
"Authentic, committed, passionate" are the three words Silvia uses to describe Mandranova. Guests also appreciate the family atmosphere. The owner of the boutique hotel says: "Many come back, it's like coming home."
She finds it particularly touching when the little boy from the family vacation has grown up and finally comes back with his own children.
Rain is sorely needed in southern Sicily
Giuseppe's prediction was right. Peter means well and the rain comes, filling the otherwise always empty river bed behind the main building. During the night, the rain pelting down hard on the wooden roof of the stone house, thunder and lightning startle the guests out of their sleep.
In the middle of the night, the thunderstorm lights up the sky and a smile spreads: Because nature will be happy, and so will Giuseppe.
The cork pops at the aperitif the next day. Because as the owner of Mandranova says: "Promises are kept!" The one-off rainfall was abundant and must be celebrated, even though the riverbed dried out again shortly afterwards.
But the rain god has heard the Sicilian farmers for once, and who knows whether he will grant them leniency again soon. For Giuseppe, one thing is clear: "The rain was sorely needed."
Good to know
- How to get there: Edelweiss flies non-stop to Catania all year round - almost daily in summer and up to four times a week from October to March. Bookable at flyedelweiss.com.
- Where to stay: A classic double room with breakfast is available at Mandranova for from 190 euros per night. Lunch and dinner are available in the agriturismo's restaurant. If you want to learn more about Sicilian cuisine, you can book a cooking course at Mandranova for 100 euros.
- Take a look: The Mandranova is located in the village of Palma di Montechiaro , not far from Agrigento, which is famous for its archaeological sites, the Valle dei Templi. The Scala dei Turchi is also worth a visit. A gleaming white rock, reminiscent of steps, awaits visitors there. Important: it used to be possible to walk on the rock, but it is currently closed. A few kilometers from Mandranova, travelers will also find the coast with beautiful beaches.
This article was written as part of a press trip.
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